FITTING OUT
APPUSKIDU
Inside
Window Frames
I decided that
I would like to have curtains rather than just block the windows when sleeping.
However, I also needed them to be light proof as I am easily waken
by the dawn light and I value my sleep. This led to the conclusion that what I
needed was window frames so that the curtains could be held flush against them
- Mistake!
I do now have
very nice satin varnished mahogany window frames
against which my light proof curtains are snugly held with velcro.
However, making the frames was a nightmare! The cabin sides curve in two
directions with a sharp increase in curvature caused by the fairing in of the
rib that supports the cabin top under the mast as it comes down the sides just
in front of the window. The shape was achieved by making half lap joints on the
skew then shaping the back of the frames with a belt sander before epoxying them into place. It sounds simple but believe me I wouldn’t wish the job on my worst enemy,
particularly the skewed lap joints.
Coat Hook Rails
A much simpler
task was fitting a pair of “Coat hook rails”, one on each side of the cabin
near the aft end, set at the same height as the top rails of the window frames.
Each rail is a piece of nicely finished mahogany fitted with two fancy brass
hooks.
These provide
invaluable extra storage by providing a place to hang up life jackets,
binoculars, hats, torch and all the other things that are not too long and will
hang from a hook. They are also accessible by reaching in from the cockpit. See
“Kitchen” for illustration.
Headlining
I found that
condensation was a small issue with one person on board but with two sleeping
aboard it became a problem, particularly during early and late season. When I
started to think about fitting headlining I consulted Tom Richardson who I knew
had already lined his Coaster cabin and he prepared me for the worst.
I bought a
discounted roll of self adhesive headlining carpet
from Hawke House Ltd of Fareham at a
The headlining
also serves to secure the wiring for the various lighting cables that pass
through the cabin.
Bridge deck Lockers
McNulty’s had
finished off the access holes to the lockers under the bridge deck with a nice
moulded front bezel. Unfortunately the holes were too small to permit full use
of the lockers. So, using the outside edge of the bezels as a guide, I attacked
them with a keyhole saw and took off one inch all round thus increasing the
size of the holes by two inches overall which has made a lot of difference. See
“Kitchen” and “Toilet” for illustration.
The little corner fiddles
In the aft
corners of the cabin are little corner shelves with little wooden fiddles
across the front. These were not a lot of use until I realised that if I
increased the height of the fiddle and gave the top a concave curve, I could
store an extra bottle of wine on the starboard side and the flares on the port
side. The flares however, now live in a container in the outboard well which means
that I can now store 2 extra bottles.
Kitchen fitment
The kitchen
storage unit lives at the rear of the cabin on the port bulkhead next to the
door where cutlery and crockery can be easily reached from the cockpit. It was
made by epoxying a couple of 2” x 1” battens to the
bulkhead then making a 6mm ply back panel to the shape of the available space.
The panel was then laid horizontally on the bench and the items to be stored
laid out on it. Plates, mugs, fire extinguisher, glasses,
dishes, cutlery, carving knife, condiments etc. Shelves and uprights
were then made in 11mm ply and a 6mm ply front was cut out from a cardboard
template.
Cooking
Apusskidu’s cooker is one of those ubiquitous
single burner camping stoves with built in ignition and flame failure device using
a long gas canister which lays alongside. These are
sold under various names but mine is a stainless steel one that came from Nauticalia. Some components are not stainless but it has
lasted well so far. The cooker works fine except that it is impossible to get
any gas other than butane for it. This means that in early or late season the
canister may have to be warmed before the cooker will work.
Cooking is
listed under “Inside” as that is where the cooker lives but it is seldom used
in the cabin. In fact my cooking is done as follows:
Moored
with the tent up. -
On a non slip mat on the swivel table.
Moored
with the tent down.
- On the gunwale barbecue (meat) and on the cooker on a non
slip mat on the swivel table.
Moored
with the tent down in a strong breeze. - on the cockpit floor.
Under
way under engine in relative calm - On the tray/table on the cockpit seat
/gunwale.
Under way
under engine with limited motion or strong breeze - on the cockpit floor.
Under way
under sail or with heavy motion - No cooking is done.
Since I do not
spend more than 1 day away from port or anchorage I do not find the need of a
gimballed cooker.
The Tray/Table
The rest of
the kitchen did comprise the tray/table shown above which lived on the rails
under the bridge deck on the port side of the centreplate housing. The cooker
lived on top of it and the washing up bowl with saucepan inside lived
underneath. This arrangement has now changed with an additional table. The
table stowage and the toilet have also exchanged places. See the separate much
expanded “Tables” subject on its own page and the page
entitled “Big change to toilet access”
Combination fitment
This is
mounted in the same way as the kitchen fitment and built in a similar way except
that it is on the starboard side and whereas the face of the kitchen unit is
parallel to its back, the front of the combination unit is vertical which means
that the unit tapers towards the top and is wide at the bottom.
This unit
serves as 1) Cocktail cabinet with storage for one gin bottle, four small tins
of soda, one wine bottle and two wine glasses 2) Entertainment centre with room
for the multiwave radio receiver and a book 3)
Navigator’s storage with space for charts and pilot or almanac behind the radio
4) Electrical control panel with all switches, fuses and two cigarette lighter
type sockets and lastly 5) some storage shelves on the side of the unit for
small items such as pencils, mobile phone, scissors, hand bearing compass etc etc. These shelves have clear Perspex fronts and are placed
for easy access from the Cockpit.
Toilet
Stewart at Churchouse boats made me the usual tray for the toilet
since ‘Dusky came without one and I bought the Porta Potti 335 to fit in it. I soon discovered that the top part
of the model 335 - the flush tank - appears to be common to a larger model as
the capacity of the flush tank is far larger than required for such a small
toilet. Accordingly instead of filling the flush tank to the brim I add only a
couple of litres of fresh water. This saves weight and makes it easier to
carry. The toilet however, no longer lives here. See the “Big change to toilet
access” page for details of changes to make it much more accessible.
Bunks
These are extended
with 9mm ply panels which fill the gaps between the bunks and the centreplate
case. In the centre of the boat the panels rest on the rails along the sides of
the centreplate case.
On the inboard
edges of the bunks the support is of two types. The port bunk and the centre
section at the bow have wooden fiddles that can be castellated to provide
support such that the top of the new panels rest level with the existing bunk.
The starboard
bunk however has a wooden insert which does not lend itself to the same
treatment. In this case I routed a series of slots in the side of the wood for
the new bunk panels to slot into.
I have three
panels, one at the front and one on each side. Jeckells
made some nice Dacron bunk cushions which contrary to the appearance in the
picture actually perfectly match the original cushions. The result is that were
it not for the centreplate case the entire cabin would be one big bed with
storage under.
In the day,
the cushion by the side of the port rear of the centreplate is removed to provide
a platform to stand on when at the mast. It also protects the cushion from
spray.