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The Service
My annual end of season service
includes the following;
Water cooling
Run the engine in fresh water.
Check for a strong flow of water from the tell tale and that the oil pressure
light has gone out. If you use the engine in salt water and have not flushed it
recently, then if all is well, continue to run the engine for 5 minutes in
fresh water to flush it. Obviously, the cooling water flow (and oil pressure
light) should be checked every trip.
Most often you will find a
strong flow of water which will be the case even before the thermostat opens.
If there is little or no flow, first try poking some soft copper wire in the
outlet in case it is just the tell tale that is blocked with salt. If there is
still no flow stop the engine. If there is little flow, let the motor warm up
and see if the flow increases. If it is available, compressed air or even a car
tyre foot pump can sometimes clear a blockage that the copper wire cannot
reach. Failing that, the cause should be investigated by you or your dealer. It
may be a damaged water pump impeller, salt blocked waterways in the engine or a
broken or salt choked thermostat. All of these can cause serious overheating
which will cause a drop of water to evaporate instantly on contact with the
cylinder head casting. Changing the water pump impellor is covered in a
separate article.
If cooling is fine, disconnect
the fuel (or turn off the supply from the internal fuel tank if fitted) and run
the motor until it stops. This is recommended by the manufacturer before
transporting the motor but is controversial since the lean mix just before the
motor stops is not beneficial. However, a carb full of last years petrol could
cause poor starting next year and fuel left in the carb can gum it up. I
compromise by running the carburettor dry at tick over speed.
How to flush the engine at home?
Well here are some ideas.
1. My motor came with a little
aluminium hose connector that replaces a plug provided under the rear of the
engine. You have to undo the plug and screw in the connector each time you use
it. This can be used to flush the engine but you shouldn’t run the engine in
this mode as the water pump impellor is not immersed.
I have made up a short length of hose with the supplied connector for the
engine on one end and a regular hose connector on the other. The other picture
shows (arrowed) the plug on the engine. It is the bolt that is slightly larger
than others nearby.
2. Or take a large bin. Put it on bricks under
the engine, wind up the trailer jockey wheel to max so as to lower the motor
into the bin, fill the bin with water and run the engine. Do not put it in gear!
Do not leave it unattended. The stream of water from the
cooling tell tale may miss the bin. If so the water level in the bin
will soon drop below the aeration plate where the pump pickup is so keep the
level topped up with a hose or bucket.
3. Or take the same bin and put
the engine on a stand.
4. Or if you have a bench with a
woodworking vice, put some two by four in the vice, mount the engine on that
and put the bin under it – at some risk of getting water on the garage or
workshop floor! Put your weight on the wood to check security before putting
the engine on it.
Other owners use many other
ingenious ways, at least one of which involves the use of a wheelie bin.
Fresh water flushing does not
just prevent blocked waterways. One Drascomber who keeps his boat afloat
reported that a build up of salt crystals on the gear actuator rod in the leg
had damaged the O ring seal where the rod enters the
gear case, allowing water to dilute the oil in the gear case.
Whilst you have the fresh water
handy, wash all the salt off the outside of the motor. The mineral deposits on
the leg at the back are softer when wet and can then often be scraped off with
just a fingernail. They will come off a lot easier if the motor was waxed after
the last service.
Try to drain all of the water
out of the engine before storage, especially if it will be in an outbuilding
not protected from frost.
After flushing, I usually
transfer the motor to the bench to carry out the rest of the service in the
warm and at leisure. Here it is clamped to that piece of two by four that I
mentioned. Most of the work can be carried out with the motor on the transom of
the boat but it is easier if you can find a safe way of supporting it in your
shed or garage. See the Engine stand page for a description of a simple timber
folding engine stand.
Before working on the engine it
is always a good plan to remove the kill cord.
Engine Oil
Ideally the old engine oil
should be drained whilst the engine is still warm. (to
get the maximum amount of the dirty oil out). This is not an absolute so don’t
put it off just because the engine is cold. To drain the old oil you will need
a container that will hold at least half a litre of oil. Check that it will go
under the drain plug as there is little space. If in
doubt, check with some water that your container is liquid tight and won’t leak
dirty oil! Prepare for possible spillage and put on your disposable gloves if,
like me, you use them since they are so cheap these days. Turn the engine to
the side as if for a turn to starboard and use a 10mm socket or spanner to undo
the drain plug. It is on a protrusion under the front of the engine. Point the
drain plug thread upwards as it comes out so that the washer won’t drop into
the dirty oil. I generally get an old plastic milk “bottle”, put 450ml of water
in it and mark the water line on the side of the bottle. I then empty the water
and decant the dirty oil into the bottle for the trip to the “Community
recycling centre” (Council Tip). Comparing where the dirty oil comes up to in
the bottle compared with the line tells me if the engine is using oil.
For refilling with clean oil a
cheap measuring jug kept for the purpose is best - and don’t forget to put the
drain plug back first! The oil goes into the same hole as the little yellow
dipstick. Put some rag around the filler hole to stop any spillage getting down
into the depths where you can’t easily clean it off and pour in 450ml of good
quality 10W 30 engine oil. For such a small quantity
it doesn’t cost that much to use the proper NMMA FC-W rated outboard oil.
Before you put it away, put the jug into a plastic bag to keep the dust out of
it until it comes out again next year. If you don’t run the engine before its
next outing then it is still wise to re-check the level at that first outing as
well as subsequent ones.
Bottom Unit (Gear case) Oil
There are two plugs. One just below the gear case and one just above the anti aeration
plate. In theory you can check the level by just undoing the top plug to
see that the oil level is there or just below. However, if the oil is even only
just below the brim you might need a pipe cleaner or other bendy dipstick to
find the level - but don’t drop it in as getting it out again could be very
costly. In practice however, the main concern is to see that there is no water
contamination in the oil. That is best seen by letting the old oil out so you
can see it and ensure that water contamination has not made it milky. Replacing
the oil is in any case part of the standard service.
You will need 195 ml of EP 90
gear oil to refill the gear case. It is sold in big 225 Gram
toothpaste shaped tubes. You will account for most of one tube so make sure you
have a full tube because changing tubes mid flow is messy. Prepare a biscuit
tin or other container to collect the old oil. Find the biggest screwdriver
that you have so as not to burr the slots in the heads of the plugs. Put some
newspaper or similar down under the container in case of spillage then undo the
bottom plug first (marked “Oil”). That will start a very slow dribble. Then
undo the top one (marked Oil Level”) at which point the oil will flow out.
Check the condition of the washers. If in doubt buy new ones. If the internal
diameter appears oversize the last person to do this job used the wrong ones.
If the oil has a milky appearance then put the oil in a sealed jam jar to show
the dealer, put the plugs back and take the oil, the motor and your cheque book to a professional. As with the engine oil, if
you mark a container in advance at the (in this case) 195ml mark you will be
able to see how much, if any, has been lost.
To re-fill the gear case,
remember that this is done by squeezing the tube into the bottom hole until it comes out of the
top one. The best tip is to make sure that everything you need is in easy reach
(including the plugs that you have taken out) and keep the container underneath
to catch any spillage. Don’t panic and cross thread the plugs.
When the gearcase is full keep the tube of oil plugged into the bottom hole and
squeezed with your left hand whilst doing up the top plug with the right hand
(if right handed). If you release the pressure on the tube half the oil will
flow back into it. Once the top plug is in you have time to fit the bottom plug
and tighten the top one. Remember, if you spill some oil it is cheaper to
replace the lost oil than to re-cut damaged plug hole
threads. Another tip is that if you are doing this in cold weather, warm the
(sealed) tube of oil in a bowl of hot water before you start so that you can
easily squeeze with just one hand while attending to the top plug with the
other.
The Anode
If it is clean and looks only a
little corroded you can leave it alone but I always undo the securing bolt,
clean the threads with a wire brush and put it back. That way there is a better
chance of removing the bolt easily next year.
If it looks more corroded, check
the thickness of the anode. Standard procedure is to replace it if it is more
than 50% eroded but common sense will usually allow you to judge if it will
last another season with your kind of use. If its thickness looks OK like this
one, then wire brush the worst of the white deposits off, clean the threads of
the bolt and replace the anode. Don’t grease the threads
as you will want a good electrical path between the anode and the engine. By
the way, the anode on early engines was not rectangular but round.
Greasing
A white marine grease has the benefit that it shows when it remains
and when it has gone. Duckams Keenol that is unfortunately no longer available.
The only white grease stocked by chandlers to replace Keenol is Raminol. I feel
that it cakes a bit sooner than Keenol but it is OK for a season. It is said to
be OK for trailer wheel bearings too. Mercury’s own 2-4-C with Teflon is
excellent for greasing the outboard but is usually only available at
Mercury/Mariner dealers. If you can’t get either of these then any good water
resistant grease will serve.
Get the grease gun out and
grease the two grease nipples at the back of the leg. These lubricate the
bearings on which the motor pivots for steering. Apply only a little as any excess grease will get on the steering pivot
friction adjuster.
Note that the manufacturer no
longer intends that you should be able to lock the steering pivot up to prevent
all movement. Indeed on my 2009 motor they had deliberately (according to the
importer) liberally coated the friction band with grease at the factory! The result
is that you may have trouble setting enough friction to get your motor to stay
central when you are steering with your Drascombe’s tiller. See the Engine
stand and Engine mods page for a steering lock gubbins to partly address this.
Not part of
the standard service but if you are adventurous and want to remove grease from
around the steering pivot friction clamp see the appendix at the foot of this
page.
Next put some grease on a rag or
on your finger and :
Grease the threads of the clamps
that hold the motor onto the motor mounting board of the boat.
Grease the threads of the big
wing nut at the back of the motor which controls the amount of friction in the
steering.
First note which holes it is in
then take out the tilt lock pin (This is the rod which can be put in different
holes to determine the amount that the motor is tilted when it is running).
Wipe it over (including the spring) with a little grease to prevent corrosion.
Then put it back.
Grease the parts of the mounting
bracket casting where the tilt catch slides when you tilt the engine.
Wipe with grease underneath the
quadrant at the front of the leg which activates the reverse lock hook and also
wipe any parts of the tilt mechanism that have become vulnerable to corrosion
where the paint has come off unless you plan to touch it up.
Now remove the engine cover and
lubricate the throttle and choke linkages. Also the cable ends on the drum
under the tiller handle (but not the nylon friction adjustment bush).
Propeller
Remove the spark plug lead so
the motor can’t start, put the gear shift into neutral
and remove the propeller. Straighten the split pin as best you can and hoik it
out then undo the (17mm) castellated nut. If it is tight, put a piece of wood
between the blades and the gear case to stop the prop from moving when you turn
the spanner.
- Check for major blade
distortion, damage or cracks (Any serious damage will call for replacement)
- File smooth
any small nicks in the edge but don’t overdo it to the point of unbalancing the
prop.
While you are down here check
that the cooling water pickup screen under the anti-aeration plate is not
obstructed.
Grease the splines of the
propeller shaft and put the prop back. If you don’t grease these splines
regularly there is a risk of the prop seizing on its shaft. If the thrust
washer behind the prop came off with the propeller put it back, then the prop,
the plain washer and finally the castellated nut. Do not over tighten the nut.
Just nip it up firmly then back off as necessary to get the hole for the split
pin to line up with a gap in the nut.
You should use a new stainless
steel split pin. If you are forced to re-use the old one bend both legs in such
a way that if one leg breaks off the other will hold. Never use a pin with a
broken or even cracked leg and do not bend the legs sharply as a sharp corner
will encourage a fracture. Replace with a new one as soon as you can. Try not
to use one that is too long as it will be difficult to straighten it to get it
out. If you can only get one that is too long then cut it down to the same
length as the diameter of the washer otherwise it will be a pain to get in and
out. Do not use an ordinary mild steel one. One Drascomber accidentally did and
his prop literally fell off when the pin corroded. If you are uncertain, check
with a magnet. If it is mild steel the magnet will strongly attract it.
Oil
Next you can put the grease away
and get out the oil can (engine oil will serve) to put a few drops of oil on
all the pivots that you can’t grease - particularly:
At the front of the engine:
The Tilt pivot bolt. That’s the hinge pin that the whole motor tilts on.
The oil goes at the front of the engine at each side between the bit that moves
when the motor is tilted and the bit that doesn’t move because it is clamped to
the boat (green arrows in the picture). By the way the torque setting for the
nut on this bolt is 25lb-in or 2.8Nm. If is loose, the noise and vibration will
be noticeably worse.
Also oil the pivots of the
handles on the front of the clamp bolts. You may be surprised to see this oil
turn a rusty colour. Not everything on the engine is stainless or aluminium.
Whilst there put a couple of drops of oil where the ends of the clamp threads
meet the cups which actually bear on the transom/motor mount.
At the back of the engine:
Oil the pivot point of the thick
wire catch which slides in the mounting bracket casting to prop the motor up
when you tilt it.
Oil the pivot points and springs
(shown) of the latch which grabs the tilt lock pin when the motor is down and
not in forward gear.
Also at the
back of the engine is the catch which holds the engine cover on. A drop of oil where
this pivots will keep it free moving.
Next is the gear
shift handle detent. Behind the bottom of the gear lever where it pivots
and its shaft disappears into the engine is a detent that is hidden from view.
It is a little ball bearing with a spring behind it and the ball bearing bears
on three depressions in the back of the gear lever to hold the lever in
forward, neutral or reverse. DO NOT GREASE IT. If the depressions that the ball
catches into are filled with grease, the ball bearing will not catch in the
detent and the motor can easily vibrate itself into gear from neutral. That
could be seriously embarrassing! So just apply a little oil between the handle
and the engine so the gear shift detent will operate
and latch smoothly. Don’t try to remove the gear lever to get at the detent. It
doesn’t come off - the only way to get the lever off (with its shaft) is to
remove the engine power head!
You will
remember the tilt lock pin - the rod which can be put in different holes to
determine the amount that the motor is tilted when it is running. Earlier we
wiped it over with grease. Now that we have the oil can out we can oil the pivot on the little drop arm at its end
Otherwise, in general, if it
screws or slides - grease it. If it pivots - oil it.
Petrol
Take a look at the fuel filter
which is at the front of the engine under the cover. If you can see dirt in it,
replace it and check your fuel tank for detritus. Whilst the engine cover is
off, if you have an external tank, temporarily connect it, pump the primer bulb
and check for petrol leaks.
With two stroke motors and
leaded petrol there was an issue of not leaving the carburettor full over the winter as some of the petrol would evaporate. That would
leave you with an excessively oil rich mixture in the carburettor bowl in the
spring which could cause problems getting the engine to start. With a four
stroke you would think there would be no problem. However, the petrol itself
has changed. The petrol now has more and more additives of all sorts and these
can “go off”. I don’t fully understand the chemistry of this but I am told that
in some circumstances petrol can have a “best before” life of as little as
three months. I do know that there have been numerous reports of engines that
had starting difficulties until refilled with fresh petrol. I have also seen
for myself a Coaster with an engine that started on last year’s petrol but the
boat went half a knot faster when that ran out and it was refilled with fresh!
As well as the deterioration of the fuel itself, the possibility still remains
of evaporating petrol leaving undesirable deposits behind in your carburettor.
With the pressure on us all to
go ‘green’ it is more likely that petrol will also contain a small percentage
of alcohol derived from living plants as opposed to fossilized ones. The engine
manufacturer says that leaving petrol containing this methanol or ethanol in
the engine for long periods can result in the formation of acids which can
damage the fuel system. Frankly I should have thought that if there was such a
problem in the winter then it would also be a problem in the summer so they
need to upgrade the fuel system to cope if they haven’t done so already. At the
time of writing however, UK
users are most likely to have ethanol in their petrol only if they bought the
petrol in France
I now accept that letting last
year’s petrol stand around to use the following year is not good. Accordingly,
not only do I run the outboard’s carburettor dry, but I used to get a funnel
and empty the outboard’s tank into my car when the car was half
full of fresh petrol. The boat tank then got fresh petrol in the spring.
Unfortunately I now have a diesel vehicle so have to donate the petrol to
another car! The alternative is to get some petrol stabiliser from an outboard
dealer and add that to the tank at lay up time or use the petrol in something
else. I have always run the outboard’s carburettor dry at the end of the season
and in more years than I care to admit I have never yet had to dismantle an outboard’s
carburettor.
By the way, your manual may
refer to the use of minimum 87 octane petrol. If so it
is referring to the USA Europe so
you don’t need to worry about it.
Spark Plug, pull cord and electrics.
Remove and check the spark plug
for a good colour and gap. The nose and electrode should be a nice grey brown
colour. Not black and sooty nor oily. The electrodes should show no sign of
erosion. The gap should be 35 thou or 0.9mm. The
feeler gauge should slide in the gap with gentle pressure. Watch out for any
deposits on the electrodes that might give you a false reading. If all is well
it should not actually be necessary to clean the plug. If there is any sign of
blistering or fouling or if the insulator is cracked, then replace the plug.
You can change the plug every year if you want to. Apart from financial
considerations, there is no reason not to. My plug was in good shape after five
years (see picture) but I gave it a new one as a treat.
Assuming you are doing this in
the autumn, squirt a few drops of light oil e.g. cycle or engine oil, into the
cylinder and turn the engine over a few times with the pull cord. For better
all round internal protection over the winter use fogging oil instead, in which
case follow the instructions on the can.
Check the pull cord for fraying
and feel for any intermittent slipping caused by breakage of the pawls on the
flywheel with which the starter pulley engages.
Now clean the seating for the
spark plug with a clean rag before you put the plug back. If you have a torque
wrench my manual says the setting is 20 lbs ft or 27 Nm. However, the workshop manual
says 13 lbs ft or 17.50 Nm. I suggest that you use the 13 lbs ft or 17.50 Nm
setting. If you don’t have a torque wrench then get the plug finger tight and
tighten it a further ¼ of a turn. If the plug is new with a fresh uncrushed
washer then before that last ¼ turn nip the plug up gently. If you do it
entirely by feel then don’t use a long lever. Remember that you are screwing
into aluminium, so don't over do it and don’t blame me if you do. Remember also that
you might have to take it out again at sea using just the box spanner and the
short Tommy bar out of the tool kit so it may be a good idea to use those to
tighten it! Better still, also use those to check that
it is secure after the first run on the water.
Make sure that the high tension wire to the spark plug and all other electrical
wiring is clean and make sure that all electrical connections are secure.
General
Give the engine a good wipe down
all over. Use a rag to dry any moisture and remove salt crystals around the
engine under the cover. Finally, spray the power head with WD40 and then put
the cover back on.
It is a good plan to polish both
the cover and the rest of the outside of the engine with car wax. This doesn’t
take long on such a small item. It makes it easier to remove salt deposits and
does a lot to preserve the appearance of your outboard.
Occasional items
Tiller handle rubber bush. The manual says to grease the inner surface of the
rubber bushes at each service. I can see that this would be an issue if the
motor was in daily use on a work boat always steered
with the motor. On a leisure Drascombe I reckon every
2 or even 4 years should be enough. It is a simple job involving removing two
obvious nuts inside the engine housing, wiping some grease on the bushes inside
and out where they bear (not just the central shaft which shows as greasy in
the picture) and re-assembling.
Water pump impellor. I am now of the opinion that this is a job to do
every two years because of the drive shaft spline problem mentioned below. If
it wasn't such a pain to re-assemble, I would inspect the impellor annually. I
would not expect a dealer to inspect it in every annual service unless the tell
tale flow is low although he should do so if he is charging you for a full 100
hour service. The distributor says to inspect it at 100 hours. My dealer
suggests inspecting it every two years. On all my engines over the years, if I
had a strong cooling water flow, I would inspect the impellor only at five
years (250 hours for me). It was always in good shape and would probably last
as long again but I would replace it anyway so that I didn’t have to worry
about it for another five years. If you do high hours in a silty water
environment you may want to inspect it more often. However, there is an issue
that if the drive shaft splines are not greased, then if you leave it too long,
they can seize in the crankshaft making dismantling to get at the impellor a
serious problem. In fact in recent operation manuals, lubricating the
driveshaft splines now appears as an item on the annual maintenance list.
Accordingly I now remove the lower unit every two years to grease the drive
shaft top splines even if I don’t open up the water pump.
Removing the lower unit and
getting at the water pump impellor is covered in a separate section.
Valve clearances. There is no mention of these in
the operation manual. With the hard valve seats that are needed these days
because of unleaded fuel, they shouldn't start needing attention until the
equivalent of 30,000 car miles. As, by my reckoning, that will take me 20 years
I shan't worry about the valve lash for a while but it does no harm to check
them every few years so my schedule is to look at them every five years or 250
hours. For the record the clearances (cold) should be:
For the Inlet valve 2 to 5 thou (0.06 - 0.14mm) and for the Exhaust valve 4 to
7 thou (0.11 – 0.19mm). If you feel competent to tackle this task, the valves
are under the pressed steel cover at the back of the engine. Top Dead Centre
(TDC) is found by first removing the spark plug and the fuel pump. Remember
that this is a four stroke so although there is only one cylinder there are two
TDCs in each cycle but only one is the firing one. Turn the flywheel until the
raised mark on the camshaft is visible through the hole where the fuel pump
was. As the camshaft rotates at half engine speed this will indicate which is the correct TDC. At the same time a raised TDC mark on
the block casting should be lined up with a notched TDC mark on the flywheel.
The raised mark on the block is at the top of the casting a couple of inches
above the dipstick. On my present motor, there are three marks on the block – a
larger one (TDC), another close to it (5 degrees before TDC) and a third
further to the right (25 degrees before TDC). On my flywheel there are two
notched marks. One is marked “25” and the other is marked “T” for TDC.
With the engine cold, the cover
off the valves, the camshaft mark visible and the two TDC marks aligned, check
the clearances with a feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve. The intake
valve is the upper one of the two. If the clearances need adjusting it is done
by loosening the pivot lock nut, and turning the pivot until the gap is
correct. Then keep the pivot still and retighten the lock nut. If you have a
torque wrench the pivot lock nut should be tightened to 90 lb-in or 10 Nm and
the four cover bolts to 70 lb-in or 8 Nm. Finally, bolt the fuel pump back on
and replace the spark plug. As you hopefully wont be
doing this too often you might like to treat it to a new gasket after cleaning
up the faces.
Touch up. It is wise to touch up anywhere that the paint has been damaged in
order to slow the progress of the oxides which will spoil the motor’s
appearance. I use a spray can of the manufacturer’s paint. For small chips,
clean to bare metal, spray some of the paint into the cap of the can and then
use a small artists paint brush to apply a couple of coats of paint. I use the
spray can itself to smarten up the propeller each season. Although a primer is
necessary for a bigger area of bare metal I don’t use a primer for the propeller
or for little touch up jobs. I do use wet and dry paper on a block to feather
the edges where necessary.
Stand back and admire. Oh, and
don’t forget to replace the kill cord.
I hope that these notes will
help you keep your engine in ‘as new’ condition.
APPENDIX
As
mentioned above this is for the more adventurous and wanting to remove grease
from around the steering pivot friction clamp. The process is rather messy but relatively
simple.
Note that there may be minor differences with your
engine as the pivot clamp and the rubber bushes appear to have been modified a
little over the years.
First remove the steering pivot friction wing nut and the spring and washer
underneath the wing nut. Next pivot the engine as if for a turn to port then
put some old carpet or something soft on the floor and lay the engine down on
top. The engine should be lying with the power head tiller side down but with
propeller up. This picture is a copy of the picture which illustrated the two
grease nipples on the port side of the engine. Next to each of the nipples is a
bolt. They are just above the top nipple and just below and to the left of the
bottom nipple. There are two more identical bolts on the starboard side.
Undo the four
bolts and the engine will split into three parts.
1. The rear
half of the pivot bearing housing.
2. The main
part comprising the power head and the drive leg with the pivot clamp on it.
3. An assembly comprising the transom mounting and the front
half of the pivot bearing housing.
You will see that the pivot bearing assembly has a
big grease loaded rubber bearing at the top and another at the bottom. These
rubber bearings are each split in one place to enable them to be stretched
around the leg. Above the top rubber and below the bottom one are in each case
a two part nylon thrust plate. In this picture the
lower one is visible on the leg. The upper one is also on the leg but partly
hidden by the upper rubber. The components in the picture have been cleaned.
When you first disassemble expect things to look rather more
messy.
Remove any grease from the sections between the
upper and lower bushes, wipe this area with solvent (not the rubbers or thrust
plates) then re assemble.
The upper rubber has a square protrusion on the
front which engages in the square hole you will see at the top of the front half of the pivot bearing housing
(on the right of the picture). The lower rubber has a protrusion on the top which engages in an indentation in the rear half of the pivot bearing housing above where the lower rubber bearing goes. This indentation can be seen
from the outside in the upper of the two photographs above. About
an inch or so below the wing nut. All this is fairly obvious when you
are doing it for real.
Reassembly is just a matter of putting the transom mounting combined with the
front half of the pivot bearing housing assembly under the leg. Then with the
rubbers and thrust plates in place, fitting the rear half of the pivot bearing
housing on top whilst putting the two ends of the pivot clamp together and
locating the threaded pin of the pivot clamp into its hole. The four bolts can
then be replaced and the wing nut, spring and washer replaced.
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